How to Rent a Villa in Tuscany

You are my kind of traveler. You’re Googling words like “villa” and “agriturismo” and “Tuscany.” I love you already. Can we chat over a bottle of Chianti with some pecorino cheese and crusty bread? You want the adventure, the experience, the very ink of the traveler’s diary on your fingertips. Renting a villa is for that kind of traveler. If you want to truly experience Italy—the sights, smells, sounds, feel of it—renting a villa is the way to go.

Now, if you’re the kind of traveler who prefers hotels on clearly laid-out maps, concierges, and tourist-filled restaurants vs. getting lost in a new place, shopping at the unknown store, and facing the unfamiliar stove—move along, because this villa route isn’t for you.

My family has rented villas in Tuscany several times and learned something new with each visit. Here’s what you need to know before you dive into your search.

Things to think about before you book

Best airfares are typically for midweek flights, taking off and landing either in Rome or Venice. For a little more you can fly in and out of Florence. You’ll need to rent a car before you leave the city.

To avoid getting scammed, rent your villa via an established company that offers guarantees, rather than booking directly with a villa owner. You'll most likely email back and forth with the villa owner directly, but process your reservation through a vetted site that stands behind their reservations.

Once you find a desired location, do an Internet search for the name—you want to read everything you can about it, not just the brochure copy.

Villas are typically rented Saturday to Saturday. If traveling off-season, you may be able to deviate from that standard.   

Do you want to see everything in Tuscany? Then choose a central location, somewhere around Florence and Siena, preferably near a train line so you can schedule a day trip every day. If you'd rather get a sense of Tuscany without the hubbub, choose a location farther out and plan on less frequent journeys.

How many bedrooms and bathrooms do you really need? Be realistic. If you’re traveling in a multi-generation fashion (for which Tuscany is perfect!), plan on at least one bathroom and one bedroom for every family unit present.

Do you want a functioning kitchen with space to sit down and eat? Please say yes—this is half the experience!

How much “living” space do you need—how much will you be hanging out at the villa vs. touring around?

Is a washing machine available? (This is indispensible for my family.)

Pools are frequently only open June-Sept. If you’re traveling with kids, be sure to ask if the pool will be available. If it will be closed up for the year, warn children beforehand so they aren't disappointed. Find out if the pool is heated too—energy’s expensive in Italia.

Does the villa have air conditioning? This is an important feature in the summer.

If you want to be plugged in, ask about WiFi and TV (and DVD capability). 

Things to think about before you arrive

Make sure you have an international cell phone set up and have the innkeeper's number handy. My family has failed miserably at this and has borne the consequences of this mistake.

Enter GPS directions to your villa before you arrive and keep a paper map on-hand—you’ll thank me later.

Pack a couple of good knives from home (in checked luggage). Villas are notorious for horrendous, dull knives that make cooking a challenge.

Grocery stores are closed on Sundays in Italy, and Saturdays at the market are a mad-house. Make up your first two days’ grocery list ahead of time—any more is too much pressure; just plan on returning.

Upon arrival in Italy head to the nearest town to grocery shop early. We’ve made two innkeepers wait on our arrival so far…and we won’t do it again. They get a tad…uhh, cantankerous.

Don’t leave the store without: milk, eggs, bread, crackers, meat, prosciutto, cheese (especially mozzarella and pecorino), veggies, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, canned tomatoes, garlic, fruit, wine, coffee, and chocolate—if you have all that, you can make it through anything. Produce pricing is labeled in the produce aisle—don’t arrive at the cashier without it marked or suffer the Scarlet T (for Tourist) forever. Ask a local for recommendations in the wine aisle. (“Che cosa mi consiglia?”)

My family won’t return to Toscana without an agriturismo stay. It’s been that wonderful for us.

Our favorite itinerary

• Rise late-morning
• Coffee and stroll
• Lunch
• Day trip for half the day
• Return for sunset and Chianti as the town bells toll in the distance
• Make dinner
• Sigh in bliss; making a toast to the view and the fantastic wine you’re drinking, just over the hill from the winery where it was bottled



Places to begin checking out Tuscan agriturismos

• Agriturismo.net
• HomeAway.com
• Tuscany Villas

Buon viaggio e buon appetito! 

Have you ever rented a villa or agriturismo in Italy? Share your thoughts on the experience in the comments below!

Photos: Tim and Lisa Bergren